With a classic monochromatic color palette and wrinkled leather texture, Saberi retains the elements he is known for. This season, he also chose to include modern suit silhouettes, a few smart pleated trousers, and minimal stand-collar jackets. Cropped hair, short beanies, gum soles, and backpacks also made a showing as homages to military styles. Interestingly, the technical parkas showcased exterior lined seams, imbuing the garments with a sense of structure and a Brutalist attitude towards exposed construction. However, Saberi’s classical influences didn’t prevent heavy innovation. His overcoats showcased asymmetric paneling and shorts were deconstructed into paneled pieces that swept dynamically with the models’ strides—elements that brought a chaotic edge to an otherwise groomed collection.
Through impeccable tailoring and the perfect balance of historic reinterpretation and deconstruction, Boris Bidjan Saberi presents us with a fresh take on the dark urban uniform.
Watch the entire show here.